VIP Survey: Frances Mayes

Frances Mayes / © John Gillooly

What is your favorite hotel in the world?

I love small, distinctive hotels. Il Falconiere in Cortona, located in dreamy vineyards, tops my list. Ardito wine is made on the property, the innovative restaurant remembers its Tuscan roots, and the new spa must be the best in Tuscany. At the charming cooking school, you actually can learn something, then feast. Cortona is well-situated for endless exploration. Another favorite: The Copernicus in Krakow.

What are your favorite restaurants?

Impossible question! When I’m not in Italy, I live in the Triangle area of NC.  Around here, we have an explosion of simply amazing restaurants. We’re way beyond barbecue!  Panciuto in historic Hillsborough is where all the writers hang out. Crook’s Corner, Revolution, Fearrington Inn, Mint, Lantern, Magnolia Grill, Dos Perros, Piedmont, Rue Cler—it’s worth a trip to Chapel Hill and Durham just to eat.  Midday, I often run into chefs at the righteous taco stand, La Vaquita.

In Italy my favorites are all over the country.  The veal shank at Da Ventura in Sansepolcro calls to me.  Ora d’Aria in Florence is exquisite. It’s hard to find a bad meal in Italy. Try Dora in Naples.  The waitress breaks into arias. I adore eating in Sicily—the food there is the best on planet earth.  I could write a book!

What’s the worst travel experience you’ve ever had?

I’d rather tell you about the best—sailing the Mediterranean coast of Turkey, or hiking around Capri, or renting a house in Scotland. I must say that 99.99% of my traveling has taken place under the blessing of the travel gods but I did have one hideous train ride from Macchu Picchu to Cuzco.  Our train derailed and we were packed onto another smaller train.  Everyone was smashed together and some people climbed on top of the cars. One person was killed when the train went into a low tunnel.  I was on another train in Switzerland that derailed and we had to walk the tracks two miles in the snow at night, lugging our bags. Odd that flying always makes me nervous and I love train trips.

Can you tell us about any “hidden gem” restaurants you enjoy—like a non-touristy neighborhood spot, or an amazing place in a smaller town?

Really unique is Spiritus Sanctus in Gdansk, Poland—a private club, but you can go in for a glass of wine and be invited to stay for an intimate dinner of regional cuisine, slow food style, amid quirky art and sculpture.  In Rome, the true-blue trattoria is Osteria La Gensola in Trastevere. When you’re there you could be no place but Roma. In Venice, find it if you can, Trattoria Antiche Carampane in San Polo is a place of character and the food speaks the local dialect.  These are three of my secret places which I’m now sharing!

Frances Mayes is the author of Under the Tuscan Sun. Her latest book, Every Day in Tuscany (Broadway), will be published in March and is available for pre-order on Amazon.com.

Read travel tips from other celebrities in our Celebrity Survey Archive.